The Stuff of Legends

Whew! We just returned from a three week whorl-wind tour of Thailand, Cambodia, and Laos. What an adventure – definitely a trip of a lifetime! The last couple of days have been spent mentally processing everything we saw and did (not to mention the plethora of photos), and recovering from some serious jet-lag.

Fresh Produce at a Thai Market

 

This trip was centered on cultural immersion and we were fortunate to be able to spend much of our time in some decidedly non-touristy areas. Along the way we met many interesting people and saw parts of the country that few get to see – we were sometimes the only foreigners around, which drew many stares from the locals. These experiences were among the highlights of the trip. And yes, there was even a little fishing to be had (sorry, no fly fishing – just slinging bait with the locals):

 

One evening we went for dinner at a floating restaurant on the Mekong River in southern Laos. The kitchen staff provided me with some fish scraps to use as bait and after getting the OK from the proprietor, a line was cast right from our dinner table and the waiting ensued. As the sun set over the river, bathing everything in a spectacular red glow, dinner was served and a several beers were consumed. I have to admit that the local food provided a delectable distraction, and a few small nibbles (from the fish) went unanswered or unnoticed.

Sun-set on the Mighty Mekong River

 

It wasn’t until after dark that one of the cooks let me in on their secret bait, a ball of kaaw niew (sticky rice). I was a little skeptical at first (and didn’t think it would hold together in the water) but was assured that I was not being played – they had apparently caught a few small fish on sticky rice a few weeks prior. Well, it wasn’t long before I started to get a few more nibbles. After missing several fish, and only a few minutes before we had to leave, I decided to try a different strategy on the next bite.

 

I felt a slight tug, gave some slack, and after a suitable pause tightened the line. I was into a good fish and as I worked it closer to the restaurant lights it took off on a blistering run out towards the middle of the river. Several minutes and a number of good runs later the fish was a few feet out when it peeled more line and dove for cover under the restaurant. Undaunted, I reached the rod over the railing and down to keep the line clear of any obstructions hiding in the murky water. The fish made a few more runs under the restaurant before I finally got it under control.

 

It was at this point that I got a good look at the fish and realized hoisting it up and over the railing was not an option. After a few seconds of chatter and scrambling one of the cooks came out with a small net (obviously too small and not designed for landing fish) and jumped over the railing and down onto the pontoon to assist. We somehow managed to squeeze the fish into the net and it was hoisted onboard to much fanfare and applause from staff and patrons. I am not sure on the exact species (the Mekong holds over 200 species of fish) but it was some sort of carp – and a good sized one. The staff all said it was the biggest fish they had seen or caught in that area for quite some time.

 

A few days later, while cycling around Don Det we ran into an Aussie, and while chatting with him we told the tale of the restaurant fish. When the story was done he remarked “That’s just legend mate”. And after thinking about it a little more I realized he was right – that evening will likely be talked about by the restaurant staff for years to come; the day the farang (foreigner) caught the big one right from their restaurant while eating his dinner.

 

 

The Fish Market in Ubon Ratchathani

 

Going from temperatures in the mid to high 30’s, to today’s balmy -25 with a -40 wind chill is a big shock to the system. So it’s back to reality for me – and my thoughts are turning to fly tying for the coming summer.