Think Like a Trout, Act Like a Bug.
Thursday, February 28, 2013
2013 Alberta Fishing Regulations
They have likely been up for a few weeks, but I just noticed that the 2013 Alberta Fishing Regulations are available now.
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
Making Progress
Friday, February 22, 2013
Meet the Key Players (lakes)
Here is a
list of the core bug and life stage patterns that I always have with me when
fishing lakes (again, these are all contained in a single fly box):
1. Midges (Chironomidae)
a. 3 color variants
i. Tan Pupa
ii. Green Pupa
iii. Maroon Pupa
2. Scud/Freshwater Shrimp (Gammarus)
a. 2 color variants
i. Olive
ii. Pale dun
3. Corixidae (Backswimmers)
a. 2 variants
i. Sinking version
ii. Floating version
4. Dragonflies (Anisoptera)
a. Aeshnidae (crawlers)
i. Nymph
b. Libellulidae/Corduliidae (sprawlers)
i. Nymph
5. Damselflies (Zygoptera)
a. Lestidae/Coenagrionidae
i. Nymph
6. Mayflies (Ephemeroptera)
a. Callibaetis
i. Nymph
ii. Emerger
iii. Dun
7. Caddisflies (Trichoptera)
a. Phryganeidae
i. Larva
ii. Pupa
iii. Adult
b. Limnephilidae
i. Pupa
ii. Adult
Without a
doubt, Midges are the number one food item in any lake – and also one of the
most under-utilized by fly anglers. There are almost 100 genera and several
hundred species in Alberta so it makes no sense trying to identify the hatches.
Instead focus on the general size and color of the naturals. I carry pupa
immitations of the three most common colors in my core fly box, along with a dozen
more patterns (mostly pupa, but a few larva and emergers) in a small hatch specific
box.
Midge (Chironomid) larva |
The second
most important prey items in lakes are scuds. Most are some shade of olive but
in some lakes they become infected with parasites that make them more active
than usual, and cause them to fade to a bluish-green dun color.
I have
already discussed the importance of sprawlers and crawlers, and posted a video
showing how they swim. The rest of the critters on the list will likely be
discussed in more detail over the summer.
One pattern
that is conspicuously absent from the list but one that I also always travel
with (there is just no room in my core box for them) are Leech immitations. Black,
maroon, and brown with orange or black speckles are the colors I prefer.
Erpobdella punctata a common leech found in lakes |
Monday, February 18, 2013
Part 3: Shaving the Bark & Initial Sanding
The wood
fly rod project resumed this weekend with removal of the blank from the drying
jig, shaving off the bark, and starting on the initial sanding. I was quite
happy with how straight the blank was right out of the jig – but I know
from experience that a perfectly straight blank can sometimes develop a slight
curve as the blank is sanded (Note: avoid the temptation to flex the rod blank at
this point as it is most susceptible to developing cracks until it has been
heat treated).
The rod blank is 9' 4" long and arrow straight at this point |
The next
stage in the wood fly rod build involves preparing the blank for the heat
treating process:
The first
step is removal of the bark; this could conceivably be done with coarse sandpaper
but the dried bark is quite tough and it would be far too time consuming. The
fastest way to remove the bark is by scraping it with a heavy hunting knife on
a firm flat surface. To do this the blade of the knife is held at right angles
to the blank as it is drawn along lengthwise. Work around the circumference in
approximately 30-45 cm long sections before moving to the next section. Use
even steady pressure as you draw the knife along and avoid allowing the knife
to bounce or chatter. It is important to note here that the knife is used to
scrape, not carve the bark off – carving (or letting the knife chatter as you
scrape) risks cutting too deep into fibers and leaving micro-serrations that
can lead to breakage.
Once all
of the bark has been removed the entire blank is sanded. You want to smooth out
all of the knots, divots, high spots, and imperfections to the point where the
blank is perfectly round, smooth, and evenly tapered. I usually start with 60
or 80 grit sand paper and progress down to 120 as things start to smooth out. This
is all done by feel with a small piece of sandpaper folded in the palm of your
hand – the blank is pushed lengthwise back and forth through the sandpaper, and
rotated as you work (It is a good idea to wear leather gloves at this point to
avoid getting splinters, or burns from the friction with the sandpaper). Work the
blank evenly from tip to butt; repeat the process until an even taper has been
created along the entire length. Don’t worry about exact rod taper or flex at
this point – you want to sand off just enough material to get the blank smooth
and even so it can be heat treated.
Friday, February 8, 2013
Meet the Key Players (streams & rivers)
A recurring
theme in the fly fishing literature over the years has been the list of must
have flies (the top ten, the deadly dozen, the six flies no angler should be
without, etc.). Most of these fly patterns have rightfully earned their place
due to the fact that they have stood the test of time, or they simply catch
fish. But if you were to ask 12 different fly anglers what their 12 must have
flies are – you would likely get 12 different answers. So what is the budding
fly angler on a limited budget to do?
Like many
anglers I also carry an assortment of my
must have flies. These fly patterns are organized in a single fly box
that goes with me on every river or stream excursion (I also have a similar box
dedicated to lakes). This core fly selection covers most of the situations I can
expect to encounter throughout the season. But rather than being based on
specific fly patterns, this fly box is organized around the relative importance
of each aquatic insect found in Alberta waters. Trout feeding on these bugs and
life stages are encountered often enough that patterns to imitate them should
be considered staples in every fly angler’s arsenal. The fly patterns in this
box may change over time as I experiment with new fly tying techniques or
materials, but the bugs and life stages the flies are designed to imitate do
not.
Siphlonurus nymph |
Here is a
list of the 20 bug and life stage patterns that I never leave home without:
1. Mayflies (Ephemeroptera)
a. Baetis complex (BWO – Blue Winged Olives)
i. Nymph
ii. Emerger
iii. Dun
b. Ephemerella
(PMD – Pale Morning
duns)
i. Nymph
ii. Emerger
iii. Dun
c. Drunella (Green Drakes)
i. Nymph
ii. Emerger
iii. Dun
d. Rhithrogena (March Browns)
i. Nymph
e. Siphlonurus (Gray Drakes)
i. Nymph
2. Caddisflies (Trichoptera)
a. Hydropsyche (Spotted Sedge)
i. Larva
ii. Pupa/Emerger
iii. Adult
b. Brachycentrus
i. Larva
ii. Pupa/Emerger
iii. Adult
c. Rhyacophila (Green Rock Worm)
i. Larva
3. Stoneflies (Plecoptera)
a. Skwala
i. Nymph
b. Perlidae (Golden Stone complex)
i. Nymph
I have
already discussed the importance of a few of these key players on my blog (e.g.
Baetis Nymph and Baetis Emerger), but it would take many pages to cover the importance of
all of the bugs on the list, and how to imitate them, so the details for each
one will have to be presented over time. I will also lay out the contents of my
lakes core fly box in the next few weeks.
Rhyacophila sp. (larva) |
In addition
to my core fly box I also carry another trip specific fly box containing
patterns to match the various hatches specific to the location and time of year
that I am fishing (this may include life stages for some of the insects listed
above that were not included in the core list – e.g. Rhithrogena emergers, Skwala
adults, Siphlonurus spinners etc.). I
rotate patterns in and out of this box as needed – but the 20 core patterns go
with me no matter what. If you have a fly pattern in your box to imitate each
of the 20 bugs and life stages listed above you are well prepared for most
moving water in Alberta.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)